Hummm...
Ok...paddle, paddle, paddle...
See a wave coming...Skrik...aaarrrggghhh
About 1 meter from the wave use your arms to push yourself up on your board, kinda like doing a push up. This should enable you to push your board under water. angle your board downwards at a 45 degree angle, push one of your knees into the tail of your board and give it a extra boost under the wave...use your free leg to kick under.
You want to push deep enough to avoid most of the turbulance caused by the white-wash...so push as deep as possible.
While under the wave kick with both legs to push through the swell.
When you feel yourself coming up bring your board back to your chest and keep kicking...when you pop through the back of the wave steady yourself and start paddling moer hard cos you don't want to get pulled too far back by the wave...once you've done this...
Paddle, paddle paddle...repeat
Try practicing in your pool to get the whole "push up"-knee boost thing right and soon you'll be ducking like a Pro!
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